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21 Feb 17


This collection is all about contrast. Contrast of textures and contrast of emotions. I wanted to convey a “turmoil of emotion”. One of the key visuals in the collection is a mixture of shapes and textures originating from the triangle shape. Triangles can be stable when sitting on their base or unstable when not. Their stable/unstable dynamic suggests conflict. Conflict that can be seen in confused and threatened feelings. In the collection, confused emotions are conveyed by triangles made of hair sewn together at lots of different angles. The sharp shapes – suggest frenetic energy, violence and anger.

HAIR: Sam James-Cockayne – AU
Collection: Perfectly Broken
Ph: Haley Renee
Make-up: Mandy Nash
Colorist and Stylist: Sam James-Cockayne

hair-collections

21 Feb 17


“Inspiration for this collection came from the early 90’s Face magazine, beautiful dark grungy with a wearable polished finish”

HAIR: Colin McAndrew @ Medusa – UK
Collection: Bovril Babes
Ph: John Rawson
Make-up: Hannah Davies
Clothes Styling: Magdalena Marciniak & Jared Green

hair-collections

20 Feb 17

cube 10

È pronto il CUBE n.10 !
BOOK da COLLEZIONE


La raccolta annuale di 880 immagini moda-capelli.
Sono le migliori collezioni
dei Top Hairstylists internazionali.

ACQUISTA la tua COPIA

Gli stilisti internazionali protagonisti: Steven Smart - UK; Malisa Masci - AU; Bond Hair Religion - AU; Huub Eysink - NL; Paul Stafford - UK; Allen Ruiz - UK; Ione Erice, Alberto Manchado @ Mikel Luzea - ES; Stylos Peluqueros - ES; Anna Pavlicová @ Petra Měchurová - CZ; Silas Tsang @ Blushes - CA; Allilon Education Art Team - UK; Mark Leeson @ Mark Leeson Mansfield & Chesterfield - UK; Connaire Bailey - AU; Cherie Falco @ Kinky Curly Straight - AU; Craig Chapman @ Craig Chapman Hair Design - UK; James Whyte - UK; Michael Rackett @ RUSH Hair - UK; Sharon Dow @ Kevin Kahan - UK; Travis Bandiera - AU; Mayte Garrote @ Different Estilistas - ES; Sharon Malcolm - UK; Ulises Mesa - ES; Leisa & Paul Stafford @ Stafford Hair - UK; Royston Blythe, Charles Douek - UK; Colin McAndrew @ Medusa - UK; Michael Piastrino - AU; Karine Jackson - UK; Ken Picton Art Team - UK; Clayde Baumann @ D&J Ambrose - UK; Harry Boocock, Chris Horsman - UK; RUSH Artistic Team - UK; James Earnshaw @ Francesco Group - UK; Toni&Guy International Artistic Team - UK; Nick Malenko, Sophie Beattie - UK; Jason Hall - UK; Suzie McGill, Dylan Brittain @ Rainbow Room International - UK; Michelle Thompson @ Francesco Group - UK; Andy Heasman @ RUSH Hair - UK; Intercoiffure Mondial - FR; Perry Patraszewski, Andi Hinterigger, Bradley Stratton, Pont Smith @ Blue Tit - UK; Dmitry Vinokurov - RU; Llongueras - ES; Mazella&Palmer International Creative Team - UK ; X-presion - ES; Karen Thomson - UK; J.7 Artistic Team - DE; Mahogany Creative Team, London & Oxford - UK; Rafael Bueno @ Rafael Bueno Peluqueros - ES; Vivienne Mackinder, Gjoko Shkreli - US; Francesco Group Church Lane - UK; Ziorta Zarauza @ Centro Beta - ES; Guy Kremer, Jonny Engstrom, Giuseppe Manco, Matu Krug - UK; Jonny Engstrom, Giuseppe Manco @ Guy Kremer Salon - UK; Maria Unali - AU; Mai Ha @ Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team - UK; Sophie Bauçais - FR; Chantal McAuliffe @ Rainbow Room International - LEAP Ahead Team - UK; Lauren Tudor @ En Route - LEAP Ahead Team - UK; Neil Barton - UK; Jose García Peluqueros - ES; Arthica - ES; Protégé Team - UK; Sharon Blain - AU; Pauline Heap-Williams - UK; Christophe Nicholas Biot @ SoGlam! - FR; Art Hair Studios - IT; Imanol Oliver @ Oliver Estilismo - ES; Leslie Henshaw - AU; Fabrizio Del Buono - IT; Stafford Art Team - UK; Joseph Ferraro @ Halo - UK; Darren Ambrose - UK; Tracey Devine - UK; Errol Douglas MBE - UK; Caroline Sanderson, Claire Mcintyre @ Ego Hair Design - UK; Uros Mikic @ Kinky Curly Straight - AU; Mia Dellicompagni, Amy Sultan - UK; Nikki Porter @ Rubi Hair Malvern - AU; Angelo Vallillo, Angelo Vallillo Academy Art Team @ Angelo Vallillo Hair Academy - UK; Jamie Stevens @ Jamie Stevens Hair - UK; Scott Condon @ rokk ebony - AU; Tiffany Decaux @ Boris the Cuttery - AU; Hooker & Young Art Team - UK; Marta Cid, Wapa'm Marco Bechepeche Team, Paco Hernandez & Team @ Wapa'm Barcelona - ES; Stefano Conte - IT; Candice Wyatt-Minter @ Wyatt Hairdressing - ZA; Gary Ingham, Gary Ingham Artistic Team - UK; GP Parrucchieri - IT; Charlene Fernandez, Scott Condon @ rokk ebony - AU; Daniella Barca @ rokk ebony - AU; Charlene Fernandez @ rokk ebony - AU; Maria Kaplanis @ rokk ebony - AU; Janine Mohn @ French Poppy Design - AU; Elena Nardone @ rokk ebony - AU; Chung-yang "Yoshi" Su @ rokk ebony - AU; Ruth Roche - USA; Hair: Nick Bland @ Haringtons - UK; Jose Garcia Peluqueros - ES; Lorna Evans - AU; Jamie Benny - UK; Klaus Peter Ochs - DE; Rodney Wayne - AU; Declan Haworth, Tom Warr, Lidia Patrizia, Kamila Pruszek, Harriet Franks @ Blue Tit - UK; Angelo Labriola - IT; Blue Tit Vision Team - UK; Jack Howard @ Paul Edmonds London - UK; I Sargassi Artistic Team - IT; Beppe & Marco Unali - IT; Gogen Team - IT; Westrow Artistic Team headed up by Steve Rowbottom and Jenny Pelter @ Kebelo - UK; Vog Coiffure - FR; Federica Trerè - IT; Vincent Moutaut - FR; Christine Margossian - FR; Trevor Sorbie Artistic Team - UK; Andrew Barton - UK; Ian Bruce-Low @ Bruce-Low Hair - UK; Bundy Bundy - AT; Raffel Pages - ES; Biguine Paris - FR; Emma Gottwald @ Royals Hair - AU; Adoré Milano - IT; Lella Pepe - IT; Patrick Cameron assisted by Jo Wilcox - UK; Filippo Sepe - IT; Gonzalo Zarauza @ Centro Beta - ES; Anna Sorbie - UK; Lorna Evans Education Team - AU; Luciana Sabariz @ Sabariz Hairists - ES; Hooker & Young Protégé Team - UK; Alan Keville @ Hair - IE; Marco PM @ Marco PM Estilistas - ES; Bill Tsiknaris - AU; Sonia Jimenez - ES; Manuel Mon @ Manuel Mon Estilistas - ES; Andrea De Deugd - AU; Bernat Sayol @ Salón Carlos Valiente - ES; Manuel Mon - ES; Antonio Bellver - MX; Manuel Mon, Gonzalo Zarauza - ES; Seung ki Baek @ RUSH Hair - UK; Jordi Pérez @ La Barberia de Gràcia - ES; Robert Braid - UK; Carmelo Tortosa Alfonso @ El Patio del Barbero - ES; Freestyle Club - IT; HOB Creative Team - UK; Matt Stark @ Stark - UK; Stefano Milani Equipe Vittorio @ Mitù - IT; Anna Pavlicova, Jana Vratna, Jan Chvojka, Vierka Banasova, Zuzana Chromecková @ Petra Měchurová - CZ; Jan Chvojka @ Petra Měchurová - CZ; Jose Antonio Chamborro, Santi Campos @ Lagasca Hair & Styling - ES; Aiden Horwood @ Heading Out Hair & Beauty - AU; Jonathan Andrew - UK; Ryan Forsythe @ Trevor Sorbie - UK; Gianni Bach - PT; Paul Masci @ Masci Hair and Spa - AU; Michael Kontos @ London School Barbering - UK; Il Barbiere – Modhair - IT; Robert Kirby - UK; Katie Kennedy, Steven Gasparetto - UK; Rafael Raso Torreblanca @ Rafaraso Peluquero - ES; Candice Wyatt-Minter - ZA; Jo Caswell @ Mutiny Hair - UK;

20 Feb 17

HAIR: Leisa and Paul Stafford @ Stafford Hair – UK
Collection: Frontier
Ph: Lee Mitchell
Make-up: DJ Griffin
Styling: Sara O’Neill
Colour: Aiden Bradley

hair-collections

20 Feb 17

asian beauty

ASIAN BEAUTY BIZ is the Premium Business Magazine on Beauty,

connecting Cosmetics, Salon, Hair, Nail, Feet,
Medical Aesthetics, Wellness, SPA.

Discover the extract of the Magazine on line

Page: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7   next >

222
Beauty news
February 22, 2017


This collection is all about contrast. Contrast of textures and contrast of emotions. I wanted to convey a “turmoil of emotion”. One of the key visuals in the collection is a mixture of shapes and textures originating from the triangle shape. Triangles can be stable when sitting on their base or unstable when not. Their stable/unstable dynamic suggests conflict. Conflict that can be seen in confused and threatened feelings. In the collection, confused emotions are conveyed by triangles made of hair sewn together at lots of different angles. The sharp shapes – suggest frenetic energy, violence and anger.

HAIR: Sam James-Cockayne – AU
Collection: Perfectly Broken
Ph: Haley Renee
Make-up: Mandy Nash
Colorist and Stylist: Sam James-Cockayne

hair-collections

The post Sam James-Cockayne – AU, Perfectly Broken Collection appeared first on Gossip & News.




“Inspiration for this collection came from the early 90’s Face magazine, beautiful dark grungy with a wearable polished finish”

HAIR: Colin McAndrew @ Medusa – UK
Collection: Bovril Babes
Ph: John Rawson
Make-up: Hannah Davies
Clothes Styling: Magdalena Marciniak & Jared Green

hair-collections

The post Colin McAndrew @ Medusa – UK, Bovril Babes Collection appeared first on Gossip & News.



Isola dei Famosi. Tutta la bellezza dei naufraghi (prima e dopo)



Sono sbarcati in Honduras da meno di un mese, ma i concorrenti già risentono della mancanza di fondotinta&co. Eccoli con e senza trucco, con un beauty look tutto da reinventare. I ragazzi se la cavano meglio, (per loro, del resto, è più facile), ma le ragazze non stanno certo a guardare...



219
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

Tutti al servizio beauty di Catherine Zeta Jones



C'è chi la trucca e chi le sistema i capelli. Un vero team al completo a disposizione dell'attrice



218
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

ManRose, la primavera del Gentleman



Nel giardino di Etro sboccia un jus raffinato che nel cuore celebra la nobile rosa. Un fiore che già gli antichi Greci avevano eletto come simbolo di perfezione universale



217
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

L'eleganza di Bois d'Iris



L'ispirazione proviene dalle colline toscane, proprio dove cresce la specie più aromatica dell'iris, cuore della nuova creazione olfattiva di The Different Company



216
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

I tattoo più belli delle celebrity



Mentre a New York una mostra racconta l'affascinante storia del tatuaggio moderno, le star fanno a gara al tattoo più originale. Mini o maxi, l'importante è postarlo su Instagram



Mary Katrantzou: Fantasia

“It felt the right time to bring a lot of things together and be able to think about the collection in a different way – and be brave,” said Mary Katrantzou, who was focusing mainly on film noir, the mid-century movies whose heroines had strict Forties silhouettes and, as their name suggested, leaned towards black and other dark shades like purple or inky blue.

But it is hard to imagine Mary separated for long from the colours, patterns and wild digital prints of her earlier days. So the other movie in her sight line was Fantasia, the 1940 Disney animation that was a meld of various film concepts with a pioneering stereophonic sound.

Backstage, after the show with its lush, dark velvet colours (that were quiet by Mary’s standards), the designer spilled out her message.

”I was looking into magic kingdoms and that took me to Fantasia,” she said.

“The first time I saw it, I was so inspired by the way the music came together.”

She was also galvanised by the interplay of male and female, with garments that mixed tailoring with embellishment and masculine fabrics with florals. More inspirations piled on including the work of the artist MC Escher with an exploration of geometric and naturalistic forms.

Long show notes are not always helpful, and I found the classical music played by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra a clearer representation of how Mary, the founding mother of wild digital printing, was thinking in 2017. There was no sense of the cartoonish part of the film.

And the designer who once made clothes that appeared to animate china plates back in 2012, had reduced her crockery decoration to small prints that might be teamed with checks. This was an apparently deliberate way of playing down the flowers, which were very much reduced in size and impact. The result of mixing geometry and nature could literally be called keeping flowers in check.

The show was charming in many ways and colourful with its fluffy yellow collars or pink furry sleeves. But something has been lost in the translation from big and bold blooms to today’s more timid, if graceful, patterns.

Peter Pilotto in action

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Peter Pilotto: Art for fashion’s sake

I was lead to the ‘art table’ at the Peter Pilotto show, plonking myself down on a mushroom shaped stool by furniture designer Martino Gamper and surrounded by a crowd of makers, painters, movers and shakers.

What a great start and statement of intent from Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, who are enthusiastically in favour of art for fashion’s sake. The venue alone, with leafy trees living up to the name Palm Court in the Waldorf Hotel, suggested an artistic glamour, only compounded by patterned rugs and paintings.

But the design duo had the sense to make their clothes artistic but totally wearable, as in tweedy padded coats and sweaters inspired by Nazca quilting from Peru (de Vos is half-Peruvian). According to the show notes, there were as many layers as there are in a hand-worked rug – embroideries, scribbled velvet, crosshatch tweed and metallic weaving.

The duo had a word for these effects: “decorative utility”. And that did not mean much more than the very good sense of making fashion, however decorative, wearable. In the case of this Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, that meant the clothes also had the advantage of looking right for a cold climate.

Padded outerwear has moved a long way from the ubiquitous puffer jacket, with giant embroidered patch pockets in wintry rust and green laid over a blue and white surface.

Such a collection really required an ever-vanishing list to understand the many techniques and fabrics. But one of the charms of this label is that the designers do not take themselves too solemnly, offering a twist of powder pink velvet over red military trousers as well as the more complex pieces.

Significantly, among the many patches of quilting and sweaters with colourful squares, there was hardly a flower in sight. It seems that blooms, apart from an abstract, artistic kind, are wilting in imaginative fashion.

L'articolo #SuzyLFW: Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto – Art And Craft sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



214
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

‘I Wish I Knew How It Would Feel To Be Free’ – Nina Simone’s soul song played through at the end of the Marques’Almeida show that effectively closed London Fashion Week.

Models with afro hair walked the runway at the Old Truman Brewery on London’s multi-cultural Brick Lane and the mannish, forceful freedom of the geometrically patterned clothes all suggested the current, modern layers of this ancient city.

While not perfect as a show, it was an exceptional presentation expressing the raw spirit of the area and its designers – even if Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are Portuguese in origin. That offered another wry reflection on Brexit, their adopted country’s voted departure from the EU and the uncertain future for fledgling designers, like this pair, to attend British fashion schools.

The winners of the first LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize in 2015 have moved on from the shredded denim that seemed to be their fashion calling card. Although Paulo explained backstage that denim still featured “a little bit, ribbed and brush stroked”.

But mainly the story was of geometric checks and stripes, made in big shapes and worn with confident bluster. With the opening outfit a red and black striped oversize jacket, (with a suggestion of hot brand Vetements), worn over slim black and white striped trousers, the designers made a strong statement. And that continued with giant sleeves and with a zippered sweater, its striped top opening to bare the shoulders.

Black and white stripes and checks were followed by large polka dots, always giving the impression that everything was designed with a compass or a set square.

”The whole thing with graphics is mainly from Malick Sidibé photographs,” said Marta, referring to the Mali-born photographer whose black and white pictures from the Sixties and Seventies are being shown at London’s Somerset House. They were also the inspiration of Antonio Mara’s show in Milan in September 2016.

For Paulo, the lure was the colour blocking and graphic effects, but for Marta there was a further story. “I think it is a time to speak about diversity – it makes sense,” she said.

'I Wish I Knew how it Would Feel to be Free.' Nina Simone's voice at the close of the Marques/Almeida show

A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on

“Sidibé’s photography was all about youth in the Sixties, celebrating in their best clothes and best earrings. It made sense for us to do it now with all those different girls in our casting.”

The duo admitted to a sense of mixed references between the photographs, Nina Simone and the song ‘By Ourselves’ from artist Blood Orange, which features lyrics paying tribute to hip hop star Missy Elliott as an inspiration to black women.

This is why fashion people from across the world come to London. And the fact that Marques’Almeida have moved forward, producing tailoring and bold mixes of checks and frills, shows how fruitful it was for them to win the LVMH award that will have another voting panel at work this month in Paris to unearth more burgeoning talent.

L'articolo #SuzyLFW: Marques’Almeida – Celebrating Diversity sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



213
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

Ieri un annuncio sul suo profilo Instagram e oggi una bella foto con un mazzo di margherite per ringraziare tutti i suoi fan. Candela è una delle it-girl più seguite del momento e l’annuncio social della sua terza gravidanza ha scatenato una pioggia di messaggi pieni di affetto. La contattiamo mentre si trova a Venezia, sul set di una trasmissione televisiva, e nelle sue parole c’è tutta la commozione di un momento pieno di gioia che, va da sé, si vorrebbe condividere con tutti.

Sei una delle it-girl più seguite e un’icona di stile. Dopo l’annuncio di ieri, come ti senti? Sono molto felice! Prima di dirlo, ho aspettato il quinto mese, il tempo giusto per un annuncio così importante. Così, una volta raggiunto questo traguardo, mi è sembrata la cosa più naturale del mondo condividere la mia gioia. Ho postato la foto ieri sera e poi sono andata a dormire. Questa mattina, quando mi sono svegliata e ho visto tutti quei commenti pieni di affetto, mi sono molto emozionata!

Si può dire se è maschio o femmina? Certo, è un maschietto!

La prima persona a cui l’hai detto? Il papà, Virgilio Villoresi.

Come hanno accolto la notizia le tue bimbe, Verde e Celeste? Sono state felicissime, è stata una grande sorpresa che non si aspettavano!

Il toto-nome? È un po’ difficile! Io penso che un nome uno se lo debba sentire, quindi ci sarà il momento giusto in cui arriverà l’ispirazione. E quello sarà il nome perfetto!

Verde e Celeste sono già grandi. Ti spaventa l’idea di ricominciare tutto? Loro hanno già 12 e 8 anni, ma l’idea di un altro bambino non mi spaventa affatto: mi sento molto tranquilla perché è un’esperienza che sento di voler vivere appieno.

Si dice che 3 sia il numero ideale per i figli… In genere non amo pianificare, ma vivere al momento: oggi dico anche io che 3 è un numero perfetto, magari in futuro cambierò idea e penserò che l’ideale è 4!

Hai già pensato al suo primo outfit? Io non ho ancora comprato niente, ma ho già ricevuto il suo primo regalo, da mio fratello che vive a New York: un taxi morbidissimo, molto carino!

Hai già deciso la prima fiaba che gli leggerete? Io e le ragazze amiamo molto leggere e abbiamo un nostro rituale che chiamiamo l’ora di lettura: ognuno legge le proprie cose, ma il bello è che lo facciamo insieme. Non abbiamo ancora pensato alla prima fiaba da leggere al fratellino, probabilmente la inventeremo!

L'articolo Candela ci racconta l’attesa del suo terzo bimbo sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



Uscirà il 17 marzo 2017 negli States, il nuovo film di Terrence Malick con Michael Fassbender, Ryan Gosling, Rooney Mara e Natalie Portman. Song To Song è un dramma d’amore che racconta la vita di due giovani coppie attorno alla scena musicale di Austin, Texas. In un cast davvero stellare figurano anche illustri cammei musicali fra cui Arcade Fire, Iggy Pop, Patty Smith, Black Lips e Red Hot Chili Peppers.

Song to Song verrà proiettato in anteprima mondiale nella capitale texana in occasione del Festival South by Southwest. In attesa di sapere anche la data di uscita italiana, ecco il primo imperdibile trailer:

 

L'articolo Michael Fassbender e Ryan Gosling nel nuovo film di Terrence Malick sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



Emma Watson è pronta a calcare i red carpet di tutto il mondo per presentare il suo ultimo film, l’atteso La bella e la bestia di Bill Condon, nelle sale italiane il prossimo 16 marzo.

L’attrice ha deciso di documentare il behind the scenes del tour attraverso un nuovo account Instagram realizzato ad hoc per l’occasione, the_press_tour, dove darà grande spazio alle sue scelte di stile.

Lo scorso weekend Emma è volata a Parigi per la prima tappa dove ha sfoggiato ben tre look. Il primo, comfy, firmato Stella McCartney e composto da coat vichy con ampi rever, pullover, pantaloni skinny e sneakers; il secondo realizzato da Oscar de la Renta e composto da bustier di satin con ricami floreali e foulard in vita, pantaloni di colore nero e pump; il terzo era un abito electric blue di Louis Vuitton con orlo asimmetrico e spalle scoperte.

I tre outfit, ça va sans dire, sono stati postati sul nuovo account, con descrizione dettagliata dei tessuti utilizzati, tutti rigorosamente eco-sostenibili.Segno che non si tratta di un semplice progetto in stile “fashion blogger”: la giovane star ha abbracciato un’importante causa.

Guardate la gallery di stile dedicata a Emma Watson.

L'articolo Emma Watson lancia un nuovo account Instagram per il tour di La bella e la bestia sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



210
Beauty news
February 22, 2017

The monumental sculptures, abstracting the natural form of the body, made a noble and exceptional backdrop in the show’s venue, Makers House in Soho, formerly Foyles bookshop.

This was the moment that Burberry and its creative director Christopher Bailey faced-off with Henry Moore, the British modernist sculptor who died in the Eighties.

The show, in which Bailey presented curves and shoulder shapes inspired by the cast bronze statues and displayed photos of the sculptor at work, raised once again the question that has hovered in the air for at least three decades: Is fashion art?

A regal fluff st the neck for BOTH sexes for. Burberry's made-to-order 'couture'

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And in Bailey’s case, can you send a coherent message in a collection of clothes, often focused on the shoulder, that are presented in the finale with threads of style going way back to Elizabethan times?

The show might have seemed like an elaborate fashion farce, but the humility of Bailey in the face of great and historical art, and the fact that the exhibition, Henry Moore: Inspiration & Process, is open to the public until 27 February, mitigates any suggestion that Burberry was trying to compete with one of Britain’s most important artists. The overall effect of the presentation was noble and powerful.

“It was very much about the working process and I can say that I worked very closely with the Henry Moore Foundation on his processes – not just the beautiful finished pieces,” Bailey explained.

Heading for the Henry Moore statue at Burberry

A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on

“I liked the way of trying to take clothes and change the shape of the body by moving the seams and the lines and the pieces that wrap around the body in a more unconventional way,” he continued.

“Moore’s work is really about changing the form. Pulling it in different directions. For example, his shoulder was suddenly up here, the breasts were suddenly down here, and I quite liked that idea of putting something on and then turning it in a completely different way, and how can I construct it like that.”

The collection was divided into three parts – clothes for women and men that are on-sale immediately for Spring/Summer 2017 in the see-now, buy-now model. And more experimental pieces (again for both sexes) that can be ordered in the spirit of couture.

Sculpture. Henry Moore's tools of the trade – but dud Christopher Bailey use them for his Burberry collection?!?

A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on

From the start, with the famous Burberry trench coat sculpted down almost to the waist at the front and with a drape towards an uneven hem, Bailey’s look referenced Moore. But it also zoomed in on the shoulders that were the focus of Thomas Burberry when he first made army greatcoats.

For today, the look might be a dress pulled down at an angle over one shoulder, revealing the white shirt underneath, with a similar effect when a cable knit sweater had an extra panel appearing from the shoulder. That was worn over a milkmaid cotton dress, displaying the first contrast with the Henry Moore spirit – a pursuit of prettiness rather than a noble simplicity.

Burberry: inspiration of Henry Moore

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This insertion of femininity continued with a mesh skirt, more lacy cottons and what became a focus of the show – a brief shoulder shrug. After many variations of the bared shoulder or repeated work on that area (for both sexes), the exaggerated shoulders went into full throttle for the finale pieces. There, frills and furbelows cascaded over shoulders, some creating ruffs that would not have disgraced Queen Elizabeth I, or those noble males in Dutch portraits of the early 17th century.

Add what looked like crystals from a dismantled chandelier and the finale became a full on fashion drama.
Greeting celebrities like Penelope Cruz, Naomi Campbell and Chinese-Canadian heartthrob Kris Wu, Bailey tried to explain the conclusion of the show that seemed baffling in relation to the trench warfare history of Burberry.

“The choice of capes was because I wanted to do a study on the shoulder,” Bailey said. “It is so much a part of the trench coat. It’s so much the way that Henry Moore started a lot of his works. So, I just wanted to do a little project where we played with the idea of these capes and the shoulder. So yes, it will be made – but each one is individual.”

Burberry finale of made-to-order outfits

A post shared by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on

I asked Mary Moore, the sculptor’s daughter, the keeper of the flame and the controller of the family legacy, how she felt about agreeing and co-operating with Burberry. That included many of the loans that helped to make the display into a genuine exhibition, with not just the sculptures, but also Henry Moore’s tools, photographs and films of him at work and even a wall of exhibition posters.

“I think they’re very different – art is not fashion and fashion isn’t art,” Mary Moore said. “Actually, that’s quite good, that they are two very separate things. I think it’s silly to pretend they’re the same. It’s great that they’re separate. And it’s great that the show is on, and a lot of people who would not expose themselves to maybe a museum, maybe art, will actually be interested enough to come and look at the sculptures.”

L'articolo #SuzyLFW: Burberry – Inspired By Henry Moore sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



Two sets of London protesters, one in favour of the UK staying in the EU and the other against President Trump’s proposed state visit to Britain, were taking place a stone’s throw from where Christopher Kane was staging his Autumn/Winter 2017 show.

Given the designer’s sensitivity to the ordinary people he grew up with in working class Scotland, his interest in outsider art and his championship of the downtrodden, this presentation in Tate Britain should have been his moment to make a statement. But, if anything, the designer seemed to be thinking of escapism, perhaps even into outer space.

Is this Christopher Kane's interpretation of Sponge Bob?!?

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Kane is an artist with clothes, but this season’s offering, more mix-and-match than his previous “make-do and mend”, was a puzzle. It started, like ready-to-wear fashion itself, on the factory floor. The idea was to mix grand silk damask and taffeta with a more utilitarian look.

As models came out in workday coats with Velcro fastenings and sagging cardigans, it seemed that the designer was connecting to a previous collection when plastic rain hats topped clothes that signalled the poor and downtrodden, never mind their stylish fabrics and ultimate high prices.

But Kane was thinking of something else when he contrasted sandals with the foam pads of cheap footwear and slippers gleaming with a hologram sheen. That same eerie, futuristic material was also used for clothing.

“It was basically thinking mechanical, really loving the sense of oil spills and how they become much more metallic – it just felt right really,” the designer said. “Then there were the holographic flowers, with primroses darting over the weeds.”

The clothes were not nearly as weird as Kane made them sound. But there were different dramas going on, for example, the use of pattern featuring spacecraft and otherworldly technology produced by outsider artist Ionel Talpazan, who died in America two years ago. Bold and colourful images of spaceships appeared on long dresses and skirts.

Maybe, under endless pressure to churn out at least six collections a year, Kane had not been able to use his myriad thoughts in a cohesive way. For there were singular ideas that really worked – like knitwear flopping open at the neck to one side offering an artful sensuality.

But the whole Autumn/Winter 2017 show was as difficult to digest as the latest ad campaign Kane launched last week in tabloid newspaper the Sun featuring photographs for his Spring/Summer 2017 collection taken in a religious grotto near his family home in Scotland.

There were some moments of grace on the runway – especially a black velvet dress, bias cut and sloping off one shoulder. That was alone in its confident simplicity. For however much icy modernity Kane put in slim silver dresses, Space Age shiny suits and sparkling appliquéd flowers, the designer was at his best in the rare moments when he kept things simple.

Christopher Kane

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L'articolo #SuzyLFW: Christopher Kane – From The Factory Floor To Outer Space sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



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Beauty news
February 22, 2017

In collaborazione con lo studio di progettazione e interior design milanese DIMORESTUDIO, Faliero Sarti ha realizzato una capsule collection di sciarpe focalizzata sul colore. “Il colore, la visione unica dei due designer e la loro estetica iper riconoscibile sono le motivazioni principali che hanno dato vita a questa collezione”, afferma Monica Sarti.

Nascono così sei sciarpe in seta lavata dai bordi irregolari e dalle proporzioni extra large, la cui palette cromatica spazia dai toni dell’arancio e del rosso fino a toccare le nuance del viola e del blu intenso. “I colori utilizzati rispecchiano perfettamente il mondo DIMORESTUDIO” – spiega il co-fondatore Emiliano Salci – “un universo fatto di citazioni che viaggiano dall’Art Deco agli anni ’70, tonalità polverose e cromie accese, caratteristiche simbolo dell’estetica dello studio”.

La collaborazione tra Faliero Sarti e DIMORESTUDIO verrà ulteriormente sviluppata nelle prossime stagioni.

L'articolo La collezione Faliero Sarti by DIMORESTUDIO sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



Chanel apre ancora una volta le porte del suo meraviglioso mondo. Questa volta la maison celebra la sua fondatrice Gabrielle (conosciuta da tutti come Coco Chanel) con quattro video “dedicati alla ribellione, alla libertà e alla passione”, valori che hanno sempre caratterizzato la sua vita e che oggi continuano a ispirare le donne.

Il primo capitolo si intitola “Gabrielle, un’autentica ribelle” e rivela i nuovi segreti sulla donna Gabrielle Chanel e sulle creazioni che hanno ispirato la leggenda.

Scoprite il video in anteprima esclusiva su vogue.it.

L'articolo Inside Chanel: il nuovo video Gabrielle, un’autentica ribelle sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



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Beauty news
February 22, 2017

emmaverticNella serie TV di Fox “Scream Queens” , apaiono anche gli abiti sognanti di un designer di talento: l’attrice e icona fashion Emma Roberts, infatti, indossa Giuseppe di Morabito.

Il designer, finalista italiano di International Woolmark Prize nell’edizione 2016-17 e finalista di Who is on Next? 2015, è amatissimo negli Stati Uniti: la sua collezione ha avuto grande successo sulla celebre piattaforma di luxury-shopping online ModaOperandi e altre star come Sami Miro indossano i suoi capi con regolarità.

In occasione della settimana della moda di Milano che prenderà il via domani,  lo stilista presenterà la collezione Autunno Inverno 2017-18 che “crea un ponte immaginario tra la controtendenza del preraffaellismo, movimento d’arte inglese del 19esimo secolo, e le tendenze stilistiche che hanno travolto il mondo dell’alta moda, oggi sempre più vicino alla realtà della strada”.

L'articolo Emma Roberts in Giuseppe di Morabito sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



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Beauty news
February 22, 2017

Nostalgia, nostalgia canaglia che ti prende proprio quando non vuoi. Nel caso specifico magari a Broadway dove, durante l’ultima replica del capolavoro di Fosse, Chicago, di colpo ti ritrovi proiettato negli anni 90 con zeppe, pop zuccherino e Girl Power. La colpa, se di colpa possiamo parlare (ma non ne parleremo), è di Mel B che, proprio durante  l’ultima data di Chicago The Musical di cui è protagonista, è uscita per un attimo dal personaggio Roxie Heart per intonare mezza strofa di Wannabe, la più classica tra le classiche delle Spice Girls, tra gli applausi della folla.

 

Una piccola digressione che riporta alla luce il tema della quasi reunion delle Spice annunciata in occasione del 20esimo anniversario di fondazione della band e che, all’epoca dell’annuncio, avrebbe visto presenti Geri, Emma e Mel B (il trio GEM). Un’occasione che però sembra essere slittata nel tempo, insieme al tour celebrativo che l’avrebbe accompagnata, per via della seconda gravidanza di Ginger Spice che potrebbe complicare ciò che è già abbastanza complicato di suo. Di certo, vedendo la reazione alle pochissime parole intonate da Mel, la voglia di Spice non è di certo passata.

Ma come sono ora le Spice Girls? Scopritelo nella nostra gallery.

L'articolo Mel B e Wannabe a Broadway sembra essere il primo su Vogue.it.



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